Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
